Today, I pushed myself to test my watercolors. There are a couple of things that I can say…one of which is that Winsor Red (Naphthol Red) is not as gross-looking as I recalled it to be. 😉 It’s actually a fairly nice, warm-leaning red…though, still reminds me of ketchup when I see it on this screen. It’s much nicer in-person.
Grumbacher Vermilion Deep is kind of…not what I expected. It is red-orange, but for one thing, it granulates; for another thing, it appears more muted wet, than dry. It also looks different under natural light as versus under fluorescent light. I haven’t tried mixes with this yet, though…I’m interested to see what I can get out of it.
Both my Cadmium Red Pale Hue and Cadmium Yellow Hue from 2009 (we found a stash of old watercolors over Winter Break) are the same pigment formulation that I would see in the store, today. I do wish that the color intensity were brighter, though. I’m not entirely certain of how to look for paints of the same pigment blend but with more pigment load — though I do know of one place I can check out (handprint.com).
The paints I’m wishing to check out, though?
- Gamboge or Indian Yellow (yellow-orange); e.g. M. Graham Indian Yellow Hue — or — OMG! — Winsor Yellow Deep!
- Sap Green (yellow-green) e.g. Daniel Smith Sap Green or W&N Permanent Sap Green
- Quinacridone Violet (PV19) — M. Graham?
And while it would be nice to have a ready-mixed violet here, I’m thinking it might just be a waste of money. Quinacridone is more of a red-violet; something I’d use for mixing, but possibly not on its own.
Ha — just found out that Dioxazine Violet (e.g. W&N) is good as a complement to Sap Green! But a color close to Dioxazine Violet can be mixed with Ultramarine and (M. Graham, ideally, for me) Quinacridone Violet (PV19)? according to handprint.com.
- Dioxazine Violet (W&N)
I’ve crossed out “Prussian Blue” over toxicity concerns…I’m not that attached to it.
And as close as Perm. Rose and Alizarin are…Alizarin, from my limited second-hand research, appears to be highly fugitive. Probably good for reproduction, but not for fine art…though I really should run my own lightfastness tests. I’ve seen that Aureolin is questionable, as well…but I don’t have the energy to look up replacements, right now. Probably a Lemon (or Hansa) yellow would be fine…